Digital Negative Workshop Notes

Profiling Software Downloads and Instructions

QuadToneProfiler-Pro-DN Download

Target Generator

for making ink separation and custom grayscale step wedge images

Digital Negative Profiling Software Instructions

Measurement Devices

i1 Pro Recommended: i1 Pro One (rev D) or i1 Pro Two (rev E) If you have and can keep an older Intel-based mac, I recommend the i1 Pro 1 rev D because they are more affordable and flexible to use with the kinds of targets and prints we used. However, the open source Agyll CMS comand-line chartread program does allow this device to be used with Apple Silicon computers. Please see the instructions here for that: https://www.bwmastery.com/blog/2021/using-argyll-cms-to-measure-grayscale-step-wedge-targets

i1 Pro 2 is a slightly upgraded device that the rev D and can be used with Apple Silicon computers. I sometimes find it harder to work with using the ruler guide it comes with, and when density or layout of the patches isn't what the device expects to see. If you can't find a decent or affordable i1 Pro rev d that has the ruler tray or only have an M1 or later Mac, then I recommend a used i1 Pro 2 rev E.

EFI ES2000 Branded i1 Pro rev D or rev E devices will work to measure targets in i1 Profiler

i1 Pro 3 or 3+ requires larger patches and ends up using more paper and chemistry, but can be purchased new with OEM warrantees.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1612595-REG/x_rite_eo3plpub_i1publish_pro_3_plus.html

Xrite i1 Profiler for measuring targets: i1 Pro One rev D: v3.1.1 Is the last version that supports this device and is what we used in the workshop but does not support Apple Silicon M1-M3 Computers: Xrite Support page Direct Download

i1 Pro v3.2+ supports all i1 Pro 2-3+ measurement devices on Intel or Apple Silicon Macs: XRite Support Page for 3.7.1

i1 Studio/ColorMunki/ColorChecker Studio There can be some confusteration with Xrite Photo and their rebranding to Calibrite. This is really only for the dumbed-down Color ICC profiling workflows using the i1 Studio or old ColorMunki-style devices and can't be used to measure the custom targets we used. You will need to use Argyll CMS if using one of these devices

DataColor Spyder Print

Not recommended because each reading must be measured individually and is not as fast or accurate as i1 Pro devices.

Magnetic print viewing panels:

https://diamondlifegear.com/magnetic-board.htm

I have the 2x4-foot Bone White, without rounded corners or mounting holes. You can get them with pre-installed command strips, or buy and mount your own: https://amzn.to/47sisbb

Preferred Magnets : https://amzn.to/3urdywh

Printers and Inks:

I generally recommend the PiezoPro ink set for the best digital negatives, and is what we used for all the prints we made:

PiezoPro Dual K4 for all 8-Ink Models - P600/P800, P6000/P8000, or older x800-x880 and R3000 printers, PiezoPro set with 110 ml bottles

P800 Printer

Can be used with the original Epson K3 ink set and all the built-in starter curves or converted to a chipless refillable system with a firmware update to use with PiezoPro inks:

Complete PiezoPro P800-Chipless system

P800 Chipless Conversion info (Ignore the spreadsheet calibration tools and instructions that come with this system)

PeizoPro Dual K5 for 10-ink Models - 4900, 7900, 9900 or P5000/P7000/P9000

PiezoPro set with 220 ml bottles

P700/P900:

The latest version of the Epson Professional Desktop Line that is compatible with QuadToneRIP and my profiling tools: You must use the original Epson K3 ink set and cartridges or...

Import a European model that doesn't lock you out of refillable cartridges to use a dedicated black and white printer.

Printing Supplies and Procedures

I buy everything I can in bulk from Mike Jacobson at Artcraft Chemicals and have been using him since 2003/2004, and have added links to the correct chemicals.

Platinum Palladium Chemistry

I use Bostic and Sullivan for the Palladium #3, NA2, and their Cold Bath Developer.

For everything else, I use Mike Jakobson who runs ArtCraft Chemicals in upstate New York. https://artcraftchemicals.com

Coating Solutions

You can buy their standard Digital Negative PdPd kit or individually:

Ferric Oxalate or in bulk to mix yourself

Palladium no. 3 https://www.bostick-sullivan.com/product/palladium-solution-3-standard-25ml/

And either 5% or 20% NA2 contrast agent that we mixed down to 2 1/2% https://www.bostick-sullivan.com/product/sodium-platinum-na2-standard-20-solution-10-ml/

Mixing 2.5% NA2 from 20% Stock Solution 5 drops 20% NA2 : 35 drops Distilled Water

Palladium Coating Ratios

We used the following for 24-27 square inches of paper (generally covers 3x8 to 3x9 inches):

5 drops Ferric Oxalate to 5 drops Palladium #3 to 1 drop NA2 @ 2.5% ( abv 5:5:1 @2.5%)

If you find that is too much solution when scaling up for the size of prints you make, you can change the ratios to 4:4:1 @2.5%. Please note this will result in a slightly cooler and more contrasty print due to the proportional increase of NA2 to palladium.

Developers

We used Potassium Oxalate in the workshop, which is one of the most active and warm tone developers for PtPd printing.

You can buy a 1/2 or 1 gallon bottle and replenish with fresh 25-30% solution after the level in the bottle gets goes down by 1/4 to 1/2 due to spillage, evaporation, or transferred along with the developed print. You can heat this to 80-110*F for even warmer prints, but will require recalibrating because of the slight increase in midtone print density.

I purchase bulk developer from Artcraft Chemical: Potassium Oxalate

Please see this link with lots of good information about making and keeping Potassium Oxalate

Bostic and Sullivan carries a cold-bath warm-tone developer that is also very good. Cold Bath Developer

Clearing Baths and Washing

Quick rinse: Plain water for 1-3 minutes to remove any developer left in the paper and to begin clearing when using Hahnemühle Platinum Rag

If using papers that seem to take longer to clear or if you have naturally alkaline tap water, you can skip the water bath or add some citric acid or a few ml of glacial acidic acid or white vinegar to make a Slightly Acidic water water bath to help remove some of the developer and keep the first clearing bath cleaner.

All links below are to the exact item at Artcraft Chemical

First Clearing Bath 15-20g Citric Acid per Liter of water Citric Acid or 15-20g EDTA Disodium per Liter of water EDTA Disoldum

Second and Third Clearing Baths: 20g Sodium Sulfite 10-20g EDTA Tetrasodium optional 5-10g Sodium Bisulfite for papers that could be harder to clear (ie, Legion Revere Platinum Rag)

Final Wash 30-60 min of running water–depending on size and weight of the paper, where larger and heavier sheets will require longer washes to fully dilute and remove any remaining contaminated clearing solutions.